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论文类型：期刊论文

发表时间：2000-01-01

发表刊物：CHINA OCEAN ENGINEERING

收录刊物：Scopus、SCIE

卷号：14

期号：1

页面范围：59-67

ISSN号：0890-5487

关键字：gentle slope; regular wave; irregular wave; breaker index; asymmetry of wave profile

摘要：An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regular waves on very mild slopes. The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influence of bottom slope l, relative water depth d/ L-0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regular waves. The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, while the coefficient A should be 0.15. The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wave theory is 0.74. Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after breaking and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.