Current position: Home >> Research >> Paper Publications

Transformation and breaking of irregular waves on very gentle slopes

Release Time:2019-03-10  Hits:

Indexed by: Journal Article

Date of Publication: 2000-01-01

Journal: CHINA OCEAN ENGINEERING

Included Journals: SCIE、Scopus

Volume: 14

Issue: 3

Page Number: 261-278

ISSN: 0890-5487

Key Words: wave spectrum; beach slope; wave transformation; wave breaking; breaker indices

Abstract: Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

Prev One:Numerical examination on third-order force on axisymmetric bodies

Next One:平缓岸坡上波浪破碎的实验研究