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Transformation and breaking of irregular waves on very gentle slopes

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Indexed by:期刊论文

Date of Publication:2000-01-01

Journal:CHINA OCEAN ENGINEERING

Included Journals:Scopus、SCIE

Volume:14

Issue:3

Page Number:261-278

ISSN No.:0890-5487

Key Words:wave spectrum; beach slope; wave transformation; wave breaking; breaker indices

Abstract:Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

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