点击次数：

论文类型：期刊论文

发表时间：2009-02-01

发表刊物：SCIENCE IN CHINA SERIES E-TECHNOLOGICAL SCIENCES

收录刊物：SCIE、EI

卷号：52

期号：2

页面范围：392-399

ISSN号：1006-9321

关键字：surf beat; Boussinesq equations; wave groups; breaking waves

摘要：As an important hydrodynamic phenomenon in the nearshore zone, the cross-shore surf beat is numerically studied in this paper with a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. Compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics. Wave breaking and run-up in the swash zone are included in the numerical model. Mutual interactions between short waves and long waves are inherent in the model. The numerical study of long waves is based on bichromatic wave groups with a wide range of mean frequencies, group frequencies and modulation rates. The cross-shore variation in the amplitudes of short waves and long waves is investigated. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and good agreement is found.