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论文类型：期刊论文

发表时间：2009-01-01

发表刊物：COASTAL ENGINEERING

收录刊物：SCIE、EI

卷号：56

期号：1

页面范围：82-89

ISSN号：0378-3839

关键字：Surface water waves; Infragravity waves; Surf beat; Bound waves; Wave shoaling; Long wave generation

摘要：Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit similar to h(-5/2) exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.